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Showing posts with label composition. Show all posts
Showing posts with label composition. Show all posts

Friday, 18 November 2011

Winning a Photo Contest

Posted on 20:47 by Unknown
Old Control Tower at LAX

Winning a photo contest both is and isn't a big deal.  It isn't a big deal in the sense that a real artist would care more about expressing his or her idea and less about the audience reaction.  On the other hand, I believe that art is a form of communication that becomes perfected when it is received by another person in a meeting of minds.

I entered the shot above in a photo contest and it was one of the winning entries.  This is the second year in a row when I've had a winning entry in this contest and I thought I'd talk about the approach I used in making this photo.

Ideally, I would like my photo to be something that is worth looking at.  It's not enough to be beautiful if it's something that has been done before.

There are amazing photos that simply demand attention because everything comes together perfectly.  For example, while hiking in the mountains, you capture a scene where dramatic clouds have crepuscular rays shining through them, illuminating a colorful and picturesque town in a valley with a vast field of green grass, with colorful flowers in the foreground, complete with butterflies.  And there's a triple rainbow in the background.  If you get a miraculous scene like that, then obviously that shot would win any contest where that photo falls within the theme.

Most of the time though, I'm working with a mundane subject that people have already seen many times before and I have to work hard to make the shot deserve another look.

First, I make sure that the photo doesn't have any defects.  By defect, I mean anything that detracts from the photo, such as a distracting object in the background.

Second, I make sure to control the most significant aspects of most photos: composition, lighting, exposure and color.  If any of those fundamental aspects are less than good, then the shot likely will not meet the required threshold.

Third, if possible I try to have a strong secondary element in the shot.  All photos have a primary subject or theme. However, I try to make the photo so that it has a secondary element or theme that is also worthy of attention.  For example, a photo could on its face be a portrait but the background is itself an interesting subject.

Snapshot
Is it a candid portrait or is it a landscape photo?  It's both!
Lastly, I think of as many ways as possible to make the photo special.  I ask myself, what would make someone interested in this particular photo?  It could be any number of things:
  • a beautiful subject
  • an exotic location
  • a powerful facial expression
  • an interesting or unusual point-of-view
  • perfect timing
  • amazing texture
  • amazing details
  • interesting shadows
  • humor
The possibilities are infinite!  In my view, the more "points" I can add, the stronger the photo becomes. Usually I think of at least 4 points, although a very special point could count as 2 points on my scale.

EXAMPLE
The shot above is of one of the buildings at Los Angeles International Airport.  I thought about shooting it at sunset while there were dramatic clouds in the sky (not so common in the dry Southern California weather). Finally, there was a storm that created the conditions for dramatic clouds.  For this shot, I used my Nikon D300 and the versatile Tamron 17-50 2.8 VC.

Minimizing distractions: When I got to the spot where I wanted to take a shot, I looked for the best vantage point with the fewest street lamps and trees.  At the time I was taking the shot there were also crows flying around.  The crows were not appropriate for the photo so I waited for the crows to fly away before taking the shot.

Composition:  I chose a slightly longer focal length (75mm equivalent) to make the clouds appear a little larger than normal (relative to the building) and to get fewer street lamps and palm trees in the shot.  See here. In framing the shot I placed the building according to the rule of thirds.  I waited for picturesque clouds to move into the background to complement the subject.

Exposure:  Exposure can have a couple of meanings for me. First, it means the overall exposure value chosen.  In that regard, important highlights and shadows should be retained.  Second, it means the selection of aperture, shutter speed and ISO within the same exposure value in order to achieve the best results.  I selected an aperture of f/11 to give me deep depth of field (to keep the building and clouds sharp).  At f/16 I become concerned about diffraction.  I also focused not at the building, but at a point that was closer (around the closer streetlamp), in order to maximize depth of field with the hyperfocal distance.  I chose the base ISO for lowest noise (according to pixel peepers, ISO 160 is the real base ISO for the Nikon D300).  I selected a shutter speed to get an exposure value that would retain details in the highlights of the clouds.  That turned out to be 1/13.  That's pretty slow but I wasn't concerned because I was using a tripod.

Lighting:  I chose to take the photo while there were cloudy skies, instead of harsh direct sunlight that would have made the building washed out.  There was also one other lighting decision as discussed below.

Color: To get the most intense colors in the clouds, I waited for the last rays of sunset to hit the clouds.  The other thing I did for color is to change the white balance.  I altered the color temperature and tint to get the colors in the shot.

Secondary Element:  The literal subject of the photo is the building.  However, another significant secondary element is the clouds.  Without the clouds, this photo would look just like any other of the hundreds of photos of this building.

Special Effects:  Here are the points I was able to put together for this photo (some already referenced previously).

1. Golden hour.
2. Dramatic clouds.
3. Interesting reflection.  I caught the sunset in the reflection of the building.
4. Contrasting light conditions.  The reflection of the building here is facing west.  As the sun began to set, west of this building, the clouds were already in dusk.  Because of the reflection, two different "time zones" with distinct light conditions were captured in the shot.
5. Spotlight.  I waited until the clouds overhead parted slightly to shine a "spotlight" on the building (that's why the left part of the building is brighter than the right part). This not only highlighted the building but allowed me to get a darker exposure for the clouds (relative to the sunlight), making the clouds even more dramatic.

So there you have it!

RELATED POSTS
What's the point of having different lenses?
Environmental Portrait: Go Short or Long?
Brushing the Sky
Mitchell Kanashkevich's Captivating Color

Read More
Posted in color, composition, exposure, lighting | No comments

Monday, 26 September 2011

Environmental Portrait: Go Short or Long?

Posted on 21:34 by Unknown
If you were to take an environmental portrait, should you use a short focal length or long focal length?

Actually it's a trick question because neither answer is correct for every type of environmental portrait.  As a general rule, to allow a subject to occupy the same portion of the frame, you should either be close to the subject and use a short focal length, at a "moderate" distance with a normal focal length, or far from the subject with a long focal length.  What constitutes a moderate distance depends on the size of the particular subject: the larger the subject the longer the moderate distance will be.


For environmental portraits, there's a twist to the general rule because there are now two elements: the subject and the background element.

My first step is to choose the relative sizes of the relevant elements.  By relevant elements, I mean the part of the subject(s) and the part of the background that I want to include in the frame.  For example, if the subject is just one person, I choose whether to do just a head shot or full-length or something in between.

Similarly, for backgrounds, I don't necessarily want to capture everything that I can see.  If there's a mountain range I don't need to have the entire mountain range in the shot.  Just capturing a portion of the range may be enough to imply the presence of a mountain range.
Let's talk about controlling the relative size.  To make the background element smaller relative to the subject (or to include more of the background), I either move the camera closer to the subject or I move the subject farther from the background, or both.  Vice-versa if I want the background element to look larger (or capture less of the background).

Once I have the relative sizes of the subject and background the way I want them, I use the general rule to determine the focal length to use.

EXAMPLE 1:

A few weeks ago, we spent the weekend in Palm Desert.  I first took a shot of my parents with a short focal length (28.5 mm in 35mm terms), from about 10 feet away.
19mm (equivalent to 28mm), about 10 feet from subjects
In the next shot, I wanted to emphasize the mountain range in the background and make the mountains appear larger and closer.  To do that I moved myself (and the camera) further away to about 20 feet and used a longer focal length (75mm in 35mm terms).
50mm (equivalent to 75mm), about 20 feet from subjects
If I had a longer lens with me, I could have moved further back and used an even longer focal length to make the mountain range appear larger.  On the other hand, less of the background would be included in the shot.

EXAMPLE 2:

A few months ago, we were visiting the charming town of Solvang near Santa Barbara.  In this first shot, my wife was about 150 feet away from the windmill and my focal length was 50mm (75mm in 35mm terms).
50mm (equivalent to 75mm)
In this second shot, I was now taking a photo of the group.  If I had taken a photo of the group from the same distance and the same focal length, the group would not have fit in the shot.  One solution might be to move further back (far enough for the group to fit in the frame).  Note that as I go farther from both the subject and the background, the windmill would look "larger" relative to the subjects.

Another solution was to use a shorter focal length to capture a wider view that encompasses the group.  However, if I did that from the same distance, the windmill would look much smaller.   To make the shot work with a short focal length (25.5mm in 35mm terms), I asked the group to move much closer to the windmill (now about 75 feet away), keeping the windmill a prominent compositional element.
17mm (equivalent to 25mm)
CHOOSING BETWEEN SIMILAR RELATIVE SIZES
Sometimes I have both options available: a short focal length close to the subject and background or a long focal length far from the subject and background, with about the same relative sizes.  In that case, I consider other factors such as the depth of field or kind of perspective distortion I want.

RELATED POSTS:
If you found this post useful you may want to check out these related posts:

  • What's the point of having different lenses? Controlling composition with different focal lengths
  • Tip: Using a Zoom Lens as a Compositional Aid
  • Getting a larger moon in the background

Read More
Posted in angle, background, composition, distance, environmental portrait, focal length, lens, long, short, subject, tele, telephoto, wide | No comments

Thursday, 16 June 2011

Why I Love My Sigma 50-150

Posted on 21:23 by Unknown
Here are a couple of shots that I took with the Sigma 50-150 that show why I love it.



122mm.  ISO 800, f/2.8, 1/500. 

105mm.  ISO 200, f/2.8, 1/2500
Both were taken with a Nikon D70.  What I really like about the Sigma is that at f/2.8, the depth of field is juuuust enough to keep the subject's eyes, nose, mouth and ears in focus, while a background that is at least a few feet away becomes a total blur, helping me to easily simplify the composition.  Plus, the shallow depth of field is an easy way to impress non-photographers. :p

Even when the background is not that far behind the subject, the background is still rendered as a blur, although the bokeh is less smooth.  Here, the nearest part of the background was less than two feet behind our toddler.

90mm.  ISO 800, f/2.8, 1/1250.

I'm still very curious about the Sigma 50-150 OS because image stabilization would make this lens even more useful.  But some of the early announcements in the press (e.g. from dpreview) show that the dimensions of the new lens are almost the same as those of a Sigma 70-200.  I'm hoping that those specs are mistaken -- if they are correct, however, I'm probably sticking with my 50-150.

RELATED POSTS:
New Sigma 50-150 OS
Sigma 50-150 is TIGHT
What's the point of having different lenses?
Second body vs. Second flash
Read More
Posted in composition, equipment, lenses, sigma, sigma 50-150 | No comments

Monday, 14 March 2011

Tip: Using a Zoom Lens as a Compositional Aid

Posted on 08:47 by Unknown

I am quite busy this week and behind the schedule for my next article, so until then, here's an extremely useful tip for everyone that I found a while ago on Digital Photography School. I hope you enjoy this article as much as I did.

NOTE: The illustration shown above is taken from Canon's EF Lens Work III, they have very useful material for everyone regardless of the camera/lens brand. I would really suggest you read it, and here is a direct link to the PDF with the illustration shown above.
Read More
Posted in composition, compositional aid, zoom | No comments
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      • Olympus E-PL3 with 14-42 Lens $199; Moving from Ni...
      • Sigma 18-35 1.8 Revisited; Where to Get It
      • Speedlight Modifiers - 50% discount at Fotodiox
      • Olympus M.Zuiko 45mm f/1.8 Mini Review
      • Evening Portraits with Flash
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