Nikon J1 with 10-30 lens $199 at B&H. Recall that the J1 has a 1-inch sensor like the RX100, so this might be a compact alternative with great high ISO performance (though it's not as pocketable). DPReview says the high ISO performance is about as good as 12mp m4/3 sensor, and I would agree based on DPR's studio scene test. Other interesting features: fast and accurate hybrid AF; 60fps raw burst. Here is the DPR review.
I'll continually update this space with other deals that I find for this Black Friday weekend.
Sandisk Extreme 45mbps. 16GB SDHC $16.99 or 32GB SDHC $24.99 at Amazon.
Pentax WG-10 (shockproof and waterproof) $119 at Target. 14mp BSI sensor. I'm thinking of buying one for my kids. Another possible candidate is the Olympus TG-630 (I like the colors better underwater; 12mp BSI).
Nikon S100 (gold). $89 at B&H with free shipping. This might be a good gift for someone who's not a photographer and just wants the slimmest camera. Features a touchscreen.
Saturday, 30 November 2013
Thursday, 28 November 2013
Price drops!!! Olympus XZ-2, Pentax MX-1. And about the Casio EX-10
I just noticed a huge price drop on the Olympus XZ-2 (previously $500 now under $400) and Pentax MX-1 (previously $500 now under $300). Perhaps it is not entirely a coincidence but Casio recently announced a new camera, the EX-10, which appears to share the same sensor and the same lens with the XZ-2 and MX-1: a 12mp 1/1.7" BSI (backside illumination) CMOS sensor, and a fast 28-112 equivalent f/1.8-2.5 lens.
Even before the price drop, I had been interested in the XZ-2 and MX-1 for reasons discussed below.
I'm interested in the Casio as well and I'll tell you why.
As I mentioned, I had been interested in the XZ-2 and MX-1. Both of them have a larger-than-average sensor that is also backside-illuminated. Backside-illuminated sensors are able to collect more light. For example the Sony RX100 and RX100 II have similar-sized sensors except that the RX100 II sensor is backside illuminated, and is claimed to have 40% improvement in low-light sensitivity. As for the XZ-2 and MX-1, I used the DPR comparison tool and the raw files seem almost 1 stop better than those of the Lumix LX7 and XZ-1 which have similar-sized sensors.
Moreover, the XZ-2 and MX-1 have a pretty fast f/1.8-2.5 zoom lens. With the slightly larger sensor and fast aperture, they compare favorably against other compact cameras, providing essentially the same effective aperture as the Fuji X20 with its larger 2/3" inch sensor.
Speaking of the lens, DPReview found the lenses to be sharp, and the Pentax MX-1 has earned a silver award from DPR in its full review. (The XZ-2 hasn't been fully reviewed yet but was noted for having very similar image quality in a studio comparison.)
Besides probably sharing the same sensor and the lens, the three cameras also have a tilting LCD, which I think is very useful for street photography (similar to a waist-level finder) and for capturing more candid expressions in family photos.
Although they share many things in common, there are important differences between the three cameras.
PENTAX MX-1
The Pentax MX-1 is in my opinion the most stylish of the three. It also has a genuine brass upper and bottom plate that will wear more gracefully.
The MX-1 has a green button like some Pentax DSLRs. The green button has some useful functions. If you use Program shift, pressing the green button resets to the normal Program mode. When spot metering in manual mode, pressing the green button will give you a normal exposure for the spot-metered target.
One disadvantage of the MX-1 is that it only has one command dial. The XZ-2 and EX-10 also have a single command dial but they also have a control ring / function ring that works like a second command dial.
OLYMPUS XZ-2
The Olympus is unique in having a touchscreen with a Tap to Focus and Shoot function (like the E-M5). See this video. I think the value of having such a function is in being able to choose the focus point much more quickly.
The XZ-2 also has a hotshoe. Although some people think a hotshoe is overkill for a small camera, I personally think a hotshoe is quite useful for a pocket camera like the XZ-2 because of the unlimited sync speed. (I have an LX5 and found the hotshoe useful. See here).
Among the three cameras, the XZ-2 is also the only one to allow a viewfinder accessory (but it's not cheap). It could be handy when shooting in very bright conditions.
As mentioned above, the XZ-2 has only command dial (rear) but it has a control ring that can be used to change the aperture or other functions.
CASIO EX-10
Finally we come to the Casio, a new player in the enthusiast camera segment.
My very first digital camera (around 2004) was a Casio, and I still have the Casio EX-V7 which I got in 2007, and it still works today. What I like about Casio is that they usually have innovative features. For example, the EX-V7 (and many other Casio cameras) have a function called "Past Movie". When you use this, it starts the video recording 5 seconds before you press the shutter (it's actually continuously recording and overwriting a buffer). Some Casios have a similar function for continuous shooting where you can choose a shot before you press the shutter, called Prerecord Continuous Shutter.
What I didn't like about Casio is that the high ISO performance was just average, and the lenses had small apertures. Therefore it was mediocre for low light. However, the EX-10 now addresses the sensor and lens issues.
Fortunately at least some of Casio's innovative features (including the Prerecord Continuous Shutter) will be included in the EX-10. Other interesting modes include a simulated wide angle (where you can 'paint' a larger field of view), all-in-focus macro (automatic focus stacking), and simulated background blur for portraits (regarding this latter feature, here is a sample - not perfect, but good enough for casual shots; another sample here).
In addition to having some interesting modes, the EX-10 is one of Casio's "HS" (high-speed) cameras. The HS cameras are supposed to have very fast startup time. It also has up to 1000fps video for super slow motion.
The EX-10 may have a shutter speed as slow as 250 seconds (compared to 60 seconds for the XZ-2 and 30 seconds for the MX-1) in manual exposure mode. See here. It also has a bracketing mode that can change two variables over 9 frames (such as white balance and exposure).
In terms of control, the EX-10 features a rear command dial and a function ring (like the XZ-2). For street photography, there is a button on the front that can facilitate taking waist-level photos with the tilting LCD (or can be assigned to other functions). Speaking of which, the XZ-2's LCD can flip up to 180 degrees (for selfies). When flipped to 180 degrees, the XZ-2 has a built-in stand that can support the camera vertically, with the shutter triggered by a gesture.
EPILOGUE
So if you're in the market for a compact camera for those times when an interchangeable-lens camera is just too large, then you may want to consider these three cameras. At the time of this writing, the XZ-2 is available for $388 and the MX-1 is available for $289 (black) or $249 (silver). The EX-10 is available only in Japan and we don't know yet if it will be sold in the US. Please note that these links are for our Amazon Affiliate account, which allows you to support our blog without any cost to you. 100% of proceeds will be donated to charity. For December 2013 we'll donate everything we get to the Red Cross for the victims of Typhoon Haiyan. Thank you for your support!
Even before the price drop, I had been interested in the XZ-2 and MX-1 for reasons discussed below.
I'm interested in the Casio as well and I'll tell you why.
As I mentioned, I had been interested in the XZ-2 and MX-1. Both of them have a larger-than-average sensor that is also backside-illuminated. Backside-illuminated sensors are able to collect more light. For example the Sony RX100 and RX100 II have similar-sized sensors except that the RX100 II sensor is backside illuminated, and is claimed to have 40% improvement in low-light sensitivity. As for the XZ-2 and MX-1, I used the DPR comparison tool and the raw files seem almost 1 stop better than those of the Lumix LX7 and XZ-1 which have similar-sized sensors.
Moreover, the XZ-2 and MX-1 have a pretty fast f/1.8-2.5 zoom lens. With the slightly larger sensor and fast aperture, they compare favorably against other compact cameras, providing essentially the same effective aperture as the Fuji X20 with its larger 2/3" inch sensor.
Speaking of the lens, DPReview found the lenses to be sharp, and the Pentax MX-1 has earned a silver award from DPR in its full review. (The XZ-2 hasn't been fully reviewed yet but was noted for having very similar image quality in a studio comparison.)
Besides probably sharing the same sensor and the lens, the three cameras also have a tilting LCD, which I think is very useful for street photography (similar to a waist-level finder) and for capturing more candid expressions in family photos.
Although they share many things in common, there are important differences between the three cameras.
PENTAX MX-1
The Pentax MX-1 is in my opinion the most stylish of the three. It also has a genuine brass upper and bottom plate that will wear more gracefully.
The MX-1 has a green button like some Pentax DSLRs. The green button has some useful functions. If you use Program shift, pressing the green button resets to the normal Program mode. When spot metering in manual mode, pressing the green button will give you a normal exposure for the spot-metered target.
One disadvantage of the MX-1 is that it only has one command dial. The XZ-2 and EX-10 also have a single command dial but they also have a control ring / function ring that works like a second command dial.
Here is DPReview's review of the MX-1.
OLYMPUS XZ-2
The Olympus is unique in having a touchscreen with a Tap to Focus and Shoot function (like the E-M5). See this video. I think the value of having such a function is in being able to choose the focus point much more quickly.
The XZ-2 also has a hotshoe. Although some people think a hotshoe is overkill for a small camera, I personally think a hotshoe is quite useful for a pocket camera like the XZ-2 because of the unlimited sync speed. (I have an LX5 and found the hotshoe useful. See here).
Among the three cameras, the XZ-2 is also the only one to allow a viewfinder accessory (but it's not cheap). It could be handy when shooting in very bright conditions.
As mentioned above, the XZ-2 has only command dial (rear) but it has a control ring that can be used to change the aperture or other functions.
CASIO EX-10
Finally we come to the Casio, a new player in the enthusiast camera segment.
My very first digital camera (around 2004) was a Casio, and I still have the Casio EX-V7 which I got in 2007, and it still works today. What I like about Casio is that they usually have innovative features. For example, the EX-V7 (and many other Casio cameras) have a function called "Past Movie". When you use this, it starts the video recording 5 seconds before you press the shutter (it's actually continuously recording and overwriting a buffer). Some Casios have a similar function for continuous shooting where you can choose a shot before you press the shutter, called Prerecord Continuous Shutter.
What I didn't like about Casio is that the high ISO performance was just average, and the lenses had small apertures. Therefore it was mediocre for low light. However, the EX-10 now addresses the sensor and lens issues.
Fortunately at least some of Casio's innovative features (including the Prerecord Continuous Shutter) will be included in the EX-10. Other interesting modes include a simulated wide angle (where you can 'paint' a larger field of view), all-in-focus macro (automatic focus stacking), and simulated background blur for portraits (regarding this latter feature, here is a sample - not perfect, but good enough for casual shots; another sample here).
In addition to having some interesting modes, the EX-10 is one of Casio's "HS" (high-speed) cameras. The HS cameras are supposed to have very fast startup time. It also has up to 1000fps video for super slow motion.
The EX-10 may have a shutter speed as slow as 250 seconds (compared to 60 seconds for the XZ-2 and 30 seconds for the MX-1) in manual exposure mode. See here. It also has a bracketing mode that can change two variables over 9 frames (such as white balance and exposure).
In terms of control, the EX-10 features a rear command dial and a function ring (like the XZ-2). For street photography, there is a button on the front that can facilitate taking waist-level photos with the tilting LCD (or can be assigned to other functions). Speaking of which, the XZ-2's LCD can flip up to 180 degrees (for selfies). When flipped to 180 degrees, the XZ-2 has a built-in stand that can support the camera vertically, with the shutter triggered by a gesture.
EPILOGUE
So if you're in the market for a compact camera for those times when an interchangeable-lens camera is just too large, then you may want to consider these three cameras. At the time of this writing, the XZ-2 is available for $388 and the MX-1 is available for $289 (black) or $249 (silver). The EX-10 is available only in Japan and we don't know yet if it will be sold in the US. Please note that these links are for our Amazon Affiliate account, which allows you to support our blog without any cost to you. 100% of proceeds will be donated to charity. For December 2013 we'll donate everything we get to the Red Cross for the victims of Typhoon Haiyan. Thank you for your support!
Sigma Black Friday Sale on Refurb Lenses
For its Black Friday sale, Sigma is offering a 15% discount on refurbished lenses, including the following:
Sigma 35 1.4 - the sharpest 35mm full frame, bar none, according to DXO. $679. Unfortunately, only the Sony mount is available refurbished at this time.
http://www.sigmaphoto.com/product/35mm-f14-dg-hsm-a-refurbished
Previewed here.
Sigma 50 1.4 - the sharpest fast fifty according to DPR, with quite possibly the best bokeh. $379.
http://www.sigmaphoto.com/product/50mm-f14-ex-dg-hsm-refurbished
Reviewed here.
Sigma 17-50 OS - currently the sharpest standard zoom for APS-C, according to DXO. $499.
http://www.sigmaphoto.com/product/17-50mm-f28-ex-dc-os-hsm-refurbished
Haven't tried it personally.
Notes:
1. Sigma's warranty on refurbished products: 90 days, including a 15-day return policy. http://www.sigmaphoto.com/sigma-outlet/quality-standards-warranty-shipping
2. We're not affiliated with Sigma and receive no compensation from these links.
Monday, 25 November 2013
Weekend with the LX5; Adorama Black Friday Sale on LX7
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In the afternoon, I took the kids and their bikes to visit my parents' place. They live in a community that has beautiful parks and lakes.
Tuesday, 19 November 2013
Yongnuo RF-603 + Olympus OM-D: Reloaded
Do you remember my RF-603 modification post? In that post I was able to modify my Canon version of the Yongnuou RF-603 trigger to make it work with my Olympus camera to trigger external flashes.
Now thanks to member Earlack and his post in this dpreview thread, I was able to further modify the camera cable of the triggers so that they can also wirelessly trigger my camera. Full details after the jump.
Below is a typical YN RF-603 kit, except that there is another transceiver. I have bought two kits, so I have four transceivers in total. With these, I can trigger up to three external flashes, and I can even trigger the camera (from one of the other triggers) using the supplied cable, however, this cable has only a Canon connector, and Yongnuo doesn't sell cables with the Olympus USB connector.
This brings us to the modification, thanks to dpreview member mentioned above, I did exactly what he did, and instead of buying a USB connector and connecting it, I bought the cheapest wired trigger for Olympus I could find, the one shown in the opening picture.
Here's the Olympus USB connector, this is what I bought the intervalometer for, to salvage the USB connector (don't feel sad for the intervalometer, I have a much better one, with an on-off switch, not fully-on-until-the-battery-runs-out like this one).
Operation begins by cutting the two ends of the RF-603 cable, and the intervalometer. Thankfully, they both have the same color code.
Here's the Olympus USB connector, this is what I bought the intervalometer for, to salvage the USB connector (don't feel sad for the intervalometer, I have a much better one, with an on-off switch, not fully-on-until-the-battery-runs-out like this one).
Operation begins by cutting the two ends of the RF-603 cable, and the intervalometer. Thankfully, they both have the same color code.
I connected both whites together, red with yellow and yellow with red, the picture below is not the final one, just roughly made for demonstration.
Once done and tested, I insulated each of the wires separately.
And because I didn't have a good black sealing tape, I used Gaffer's tape to hold both ends of the cable together. I will be removing the ugly looking tape and using a more elegant solution.
And it works, however not fully as expected, the half-press doesn't do anything, and only a full press initiates the focus and triggers the shutter, but I don't mind since most probably, when remotely triggering the camera as such, I will use fixed focus. In case you're wondering, it doesn't matter if the RF-603 is mounted to the camera hot-shoe or not, and I also tried connecting the reds and yellows together, but when I tested it, the camera had the shutter "half-pressed" all the time.
This modification will give me two important uses:
- I can trigger the camera wirelessly, useful for group photos, self photos, camera positioned far away (on a pole for example with a fisheye for a unique perspective).
- I can trigger both the camera and flash together, for example if I'm light painting a large area with flash, I can leave the camera on the tripod, and take the flash with me and point it at different areas of the photo, and every time I trigger the flash, the camera will snap a picture. How cool is that?
Finally, all these pictures were shot handheld with the OM-D and the 12-50 lens in macro mode, ISO 3200, shutter speeds ~ 1/10 to 1/20 seconds, ACR standard noise reduction.
RELATED POSTS
Yongnuo RF-603 + Olympus OM-D
Monday, 18 November 2013
Monday, 11 November 2013
Quickly Switching Between Shallow and Deep DOF
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| f/8, 1/320, ISO 100. Aperture priority. |
I love using shallow depth of field, but sometimes I want a deep depth of field. Here is one way I switch between shallow and deep depth of field quickly in bright conditions without having to rapidly rotate the aperture dial:
In aperture priority mode, I set the aperture for deep depth of field like f/8 or f/11. In shutter priority mode, I set it to the highest shutter speed available. I set the ISO to the base ISO but I also activate Auto ISO.
When I want a deep depth of field, I switch to aperture priority. When I want shallow depth of field, I switch to shutter priority. With the shutter speed at maximum, the camera will choose the widest available aperture that would not result in overexposure. If the conditions are not bright enough, the camera will still usually choose the widest aperture and then because of Auto ISO, it will increase ISO as needed to get a proper exposure. Compared to simply selecting the widest available aperture, you're assured that you're not going to overexpose the shot, and you're automatically selecting the widest possible aperture under the circumstances.
This approach is what I used with the shots here. Both were taken with a Nikon D600 and Sigma 35 1.4.
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| f/2.2, 1/4000, ISO 100. Shutter priority. |
Saturday, 9 November 2013
Change Is The Only Constant
First of all, I would like to apologize for the recent lack of posts, but you know what happens, you start arranging your life, tasks and schedule, and when you think you have it all figured out, something sudden happens and disrupts all of your future plans, which is how life works.
That's why there are courses like "Change Management" to teach people how to adapt to the continuous changes happening in life, and how not to fall behind or feel unsettled, you have to adapt. By the way, change is not usually a bad thing, but people feel scared of the unknown, while most of the time; despite how uncomfortable it might be, change leads to the better. Go to YouTube and watch "Who moved my cheese".
I am in the middle of one of the bigger changes in my life, and it might take some time to settle down and fall to a semi-steady schedule, so I can't promise regular posts, but I will be doing my best. Below are some of the things I would love to tell you about in the coming posts:
- Olympus 45 1.8 review
- Olympus 75 1.8 review
- Bower 7.5mm Fisheye review
- Yongnuo 560II and 560III review and comparison
- Yongnuo RF-603 review
- Cinematic photography & post processing
- Resuming the post processing series
Well, the plan is to have one of these posts ready in the coming week.
Thursday, 7 November 2013
More info about Sony A7 and A7R
Manual available for download:
Frank Doorhof's A7R review:
Steve Huff's A7 and A7R review:
3-part review and wrap-up: http://www.stevehuffphoto.com/2013/10/31/my-1st-look-wrap-up-of-the-sony-a7-and-a7r-cameras/
1st look video review: http://www.stevehuffphoto.com/2013/11/01/my-1st-look-video-for-the-sony-a7-and-a7r-is-now-up/
Also check out www.sonyalpharumors.com
Monday, 4 November 2013
Nikon DSLR Tip: See the active AF Area
Do you have one of the newer Nikon DSLRs that has a button on the AF/MF lever? On these Nikons, you can see the active AF Area by holding down the button on the AF/MF lever. For example, if you are using the Dynamic 9-point AF you can see the area that is covered by the location of the AF point. You can keep the button held down even as you move the AF selection point.
Note: the Dynamic 9 and Dynamic 21 point settings are available only in AF-C (continuous AF) or AF-A (automatically chooses AF-C or AF-S).
EDIT: Why would you want to see the active AF area? One reason is to confirm that the AF Area covers your target adequately. If not, you can move it around or change the size of the AF Area.
Note: the Dynamic 9 and Dynamic 21 point settings are available only in AF-C (continuous AF) or AF-A (automatically chooses AF-C or AF-S).
EDIT: Why would you want to see the active AF area? One reason is to confirm that the AF Area covers your target adequately. If not, you can move it around or change the size of the AF Area.